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General
Questions & Answers |
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Is
the BubbleBead tested technology? |
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BubbleBeads are based on the patented
hour-glass design, in use in thousands of sites since the
1980’s. A great deal of research has been carried out
that shows their high efficiency in aquacultural and ornamental
situations. |
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Do
I use the BubbleBead by itself or do I need other equipment?
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BubbleBead filters must be used
with an appropriate pump with some form of strainer or pre-filtration
to remove coarse particles over 2mm. Options for pumps with
coarse strainers include additional strainer baskets, or proprietary
straining devices (‘EstroSieve’, ‘The Answer’, ‘The Solution’),
or vortex/brush units.
A UV unit will assist in the control of green water algae.
BubbleBead Filters can also be used alongside other filter
equipment if desired, see the User’s Guide. |
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How
long does the filter take to start working? |
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All new filters take time to mature.
BubbleBeads start to remove solids mechanically from day one.
Biological filtration takes longer to establish, especially
in colder water. In existing systems, it is best to run any
old filter alongside your new filter for at least eight to
ten weeks. In new systems use maturing agents and build stocks
gradually. |
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How
long does routine BubbleBead filter cleaning take? |
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On automatic valve models:
- If you are operating the pump manually - turn off the pump
switch, and turn it back on again a few minutes later (after
the BubbleWash has taken place).
- If you use a timer to control this, you do not even have
to be present for cleaning to take place.
On manual valve XS models 1,2 & 4:
- Turn one valve. Wait a couple of minutes for the bubblewash
to take place. Turn the valve back. Done! |
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What
other maintenance is necessary? |
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- We recommend that the backwash
is monitored for correct operation at least once every few
weeks - just listen to the filter as it backwashes, and check
that dirty water flows freely to waste.
On filters fitted with a shuttle-valve (pre-2003)
this should be examined about once a month and cleaned if
necessary - this might take five minutes and can be done immediately
following a backwash. The other valves should also be checked,
but at less frequent intervals.
On Models fitted with a sediment additional
drain:
- This should be flushed for a few seconds about once a month
whilst the filter is in the normal running mode and full of
water.
For all models:
- Once a month the backwash process should be carried out
three to five times in a row. This dislodges any more persistent
wastes that may have collected in the filter.
- Remember that your main pump strainer will need checked
periodically, and the pond topped-up from time to time if
an auto top-up is not fitted. |
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My
pond is XXXX gallons. What BubbleBead model should I use and
what size pump should I use? |
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| It is essential to find out what
your fish stocking and feeding levels will be as BubbleBeads
are not merely sized by the pond gallonage. (see our Sizing
Table)
e.g. if your pond was 2,400 gallons the following alternatives
might apply:
A) A 2,400 gallon pond with a few golden orfe;
maximum feeding rate in mid-summer of 60 grams of food in
any one day.
- Look at the table under 'Max.Feed Rate per day'. This falls
within the 230 gram limit for the BBF XS-1.
- The pond is lightly stocked so look in the 'Light Stock'
column for Maximum Pond Volume. The gallonage falls within
the 2,400 gallon limit for the BBF-1.
So in case A) a BBF XS-1 would cope. Run with
a pump giving 800 gph (resulting in a turnover of once every
three hours in this lightly stocked pond) and a 30 watt UV
unit.
B) A 2,400 gallon pond with a reasonable number
of koi; the maximum feed rate in mid-summer is 200 grams of
food in any one day.
- Look at the table under 'Max.Feed Rate per day'. This falls
within the 230 gram limit for the BBF XS-1, however....
- The pond is more than lightly stocked, so look in the 'Standard
Stock' column for Maximum Pond Volume. The gallonage of 2,400
is above the 1,600 gallon limit for the BBF-1 but within the
3,000 gallon limit for the BBF-2.
So in case B) a BBF-2 would cope. Run with a
pump giving 1,200 to 1,500 gph (resulting in a turnover of
at least once every two hours in this typically stocked pond).
A 30 watt UV should be adequate.
C) A 2,400 gallon pond quite heavily stocked
with koi; the maximum feed rate in mid-summer is 500 grams
of food in any one day.
- Look at the table under 'Max.Feed Rate per day'. This falls
within the 650 gram limit for the BBF-3.
- The pond is more than lightly stocked, so look in the 'Standard
Stock' column for Maximum Pond Volume. The gallonage of 2,400
is within the 5,000 gallon limit for the BBF-3.
So in case C) a BBF-3 would cope. Run with a
pump giving 1,200 to 2,500 gph (resulting in a turnover of
once every one to two hours for this quite heavily stocked
pond). A 55 watt UV should be more than adequate.
From these scenarios it can be seen that a BBF-1,
BBF-2, or BBF-3 may be required for this 2,400 gallon pond
in these three different cases. It depends entirely on the
level of stock and the feeding rate. If stocks are likely
to increase in future, it obviously makes sense to fit the
larger model straight away.
See our suggested pump list - available from
the downloads section on this site. Many lower wattage models
are suitable but it is important to ensure that they are of
sufficient head. Low head pumps (e.g. under 4.0 metres on
the smaller filters) do not always give as good results. |
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Should
I use an XS Manual Valve or Hydraulic Automatic Valve Model? |
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The manual valve models are especially
popular for use alongside quarantine facilities, zoo tanks
and, retail and wholesale facilities where fishkeepers/staff
will be regularly attending to fish and water quality within
their normal routine. This allows backwashes to be carried
out at the same time as other duties, and the backwash can
be visually monitored to see how much waste has been produced
by the fish since the previous wash. (Manual valve models
can often be upgraded at a later date by adding an electrically
actuated valve). XS models are also very compact if headroom
is likely to be an issue.
Where filters are to be mounted below the level of water in
the pond/tank, only the XS range of filters can be used. Hydraulic
Valve models cannot be used in these low situations (see Low
Siting Information).
Automatic Valve models are popular with koi keepers who may
be away from their pond from time to time, and with heavily
loaded and aquaculture facilities where more frequent backwashes
are often desirable. In both cases the automatic backwash
can be timed to take place when fishkeepers/staff cannot be
present. For reduced maintenance, such systems should be fitted
with an automatic top-up facility. |
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Are
sealed chamber filters vulnerable to becoming anaerobic? |
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This is rarely a problem with
BubbleBead filters:
- The regular backwash removes anaerobic causing wastes from
the system and keeps the bead media free from build-ups of
excess biofilm which can cause anaerobic conditions in more
static types of filter.
The backwash also vigorously introduces air into the filter
chamber creating conditions unsuited to the survival of anaerobic
bacteria.
- As the BubbleBeads regularly remove solid wastes, oxygen
use and deoxygenation are reduced following a power cut compared
to static systems where collected solids build up over time.
- Hydraulic valve units automatically drain following a powercut,
leaving the beads in a moist yet oxygen rich atmosphere. Biofilm
may be safely maintained for a number of days in such conditions.
Properly maintained manual valve units can typically maintain
biofilms for twelve hours or more following a power cut. Biofilm
survival will be reduced in any filter system that
is not kept free of solid organic wastes, and in high temperature
situations.
The high level of beneficial bacteria present inside mature
BubbleBead units do consume oxygen from the water as it passes
through, and for this reason we do recommend that the return
flow to the pond is aerated by e.g. passing down a cascade.
Hydraulic Valve models (2002+) include a venturi device built
in to the top outlet which can be used to aerate returning
water in certain circumstances (see the User’s Guide).
Airstones can be used in the pond to supplement aeration.
This is particularly useful in warm summer conditions, and
in heavily loaded ponds. It also provides a back-up should
the pump fail. Do not allow bubbles from airstones to be drawn
into the BubbleBead filter as this can reduce its clarification
capabilities.
Use of a pre-strainer such as the ‘EstroSieve’ will also beneficially
oxygenate water before it enters the filter. |
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How
are the filters made? |
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BubbleBead filters are rotationally
moulded. This involves injecting plastic granulate into a
hot rotating mould. The plastic melts onto the inside of the
mould and when it has cooled the mould is split to remove
the filter. This method of manufacture results in a good even
coverage of plastic over both the filter body and the threaded
socket fittings, giving great inherent strength. The resulting
strength is far superior to blown plastic products, and plastic
tanks cut and fitted with tank connectors. The plastic thickness
is greater than many injection moulded products. The line
on the outside of the filter is a result of the moulding mark
left by the two-part exterior mould, the filter body itself
is one uniform piece of strong plastic. |
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| Siting
the Filter Questions & Answers |
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My
pond is raised out of the ground.
Can I sit the BubbleBead on the ground beside it? |
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If the inlet to the BubbleBead
filter has to be below the surface level of the adjacent pond
you should use models from the XS Manual Valve range.
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Can
I sit my filter in a shed 30 metres from the pond? |
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Yes. It is possible to fit the
filter some distance from the pond. You may need to use a
more powerful pump and it is important to use large bore pipework.
Make sure that the filter has access to a nearby drain. Leave
space around the filter for maintenance access. Mounting in
a shed hides the filter and reduces chilling of the water
in winter. |
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There
is no nearby drain for the waste water? |
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Pipework from the waste outlet
can run a long distance if necessary, as long as the pipe
runs slightly downhill and is of a large bore. In lower sites
you can drain into a sunken tank and use an automatic sump
pump to remove waste water to wherever it can be safely disposed. |
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Can
I bury the BubbleBead filter? |
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| No, you cannot bury the filter
in soil. You will need access to the inlet pipework from time
to time. If a below-ground site is required you should build
a chamber that allows access to the filter plumbing and use
XS models. |
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How
do BubbleBeads differ from other brands? |
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| BubbleBead filters developed
from the earliest University research into bead filtration
in the 1970s and incorporate many features that are not found
in other brands.
- The unique necked design ensures that the beads are thoroughly
shaken during the backwash process, and any clumps broken
up.
- The system of one-way valves draws in a powerful stream
of airbubbles during the backwash and directs these bubbles
through the washing ‘throat’ for maximum contact
with the beads. This gives a highly effective bead wash with
no need for a separate air blower, and without the risk of
over cleaning the beads.
- Waste naturally collects at the bottom of the filter during
the backwash, and BubbleBeads draw this dirty water directly
through the waste outlet fitted in the base of the filter,
rather than trying to suck it up from mid or top mounted outlets.
This screened base outlet also makes it easy to drain the
filter whilst medicating the pool - the filter organisms will
survive well in the moist air-filled atmosphere. The hydraulic
valve models also drain automatically during a power cut,
protecting the filter organisms from anaerobic conditions.
- Even if a second partial backwash is used to rinse the beads,
BubbleBeads still lose less backwash water than some other
brands.
- The hydraulic valve models carry out an automatic backwash
without the need for expensive solenoid valves.
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Installation
Questions & Answers |
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Can
I just swap my existing pump-fed 'box' filter with a new BubbleBead
Filter? |
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Water being pumped into the BubbleBead
filter must first be prefiltered to remove larger solids,
otherwise the internal screen will block prematurely.
So yes, this is OK if you are powering the filter
using a pond pump with a strainer that removes particles smaller
than 2 mm and with a head of at least 4.0 metres. Remember
to clean the strainer periodically.
But no, if you are using a 'solids-handling'
pump (that can pump particles larger than 2 mm). In these
cases you will have to fit some form of prefilter to the pump.
See the accessories page. |
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I
have a chamber filter beside the pond at present that is not
really coping very well. Should I replace it with a BubbleBead
or keep it and run the BubbleBead as well? |
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The BubbleBead is capable of replacing
existing chamber filters.
However you could consider keeping your existing filter. The
BubbleBead, once matured, will cope with the excess biological
load that your filter could not handle.
For pump-fed filters:
Pump from the pond to the BubbleBead using a pump with a strainer.
Feed the outflow from the BubbleBead to the chamber filter.
Ensure that there is sufficient aeration in the chamber filter.
- The BubbleBead will remove the solids so the chamber filter
will require much less cleaning.
For gravity-fed filters:
Pump from the chamber filter's central or final chambers into
the BubbleBead. Ensure that there is sufficient aeration in
the chamber filter. This arrangement does still require the
first few chambers to be cleaned on a regular basis to remove
excess solids from the system.
(See the Appendix in the BubbleBead User's
Guide for more details.)
- The chamber filter will act as a good prefilter for your
BubbleBead.
- The BubbleBead will greatly improve water clarity and reduce
the amount of dirt within the pond. |
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Can
I use any sort of pump to power the BubbleBead? |
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| Most appropriately sized pumps
can be used. A suggested list is available in our Downloads
section.
- The head and flow rate of the pump should be within the
range recommended. Low head pumps (e.g. under 4.0 metres on
the smaller filters) do not always give as good results.
- Solids handling pumps should only be used with an additional
form of straining.
- Very high pressure pumps are not necessary or desirable
(they are often less economical to run). If the maximum pressure
exceeds the table ratings, a pressure-relief bypass must be
fitted. See the Appendix in the User’s
Guide
- Surface pumps should be installed so that the pump remains
primed at all times, e.g. sited lower than the pool surface
and not used with additional footvalves.
- The pump is essential for the welfare of your fish, use
a reliable model and have secondary facilities ready (e.g.
spare pump; separate airpump) should your pump fail. |
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Should
I use one large filter or two smaller ones on my large pond?
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| On a pond suited to the use of
one large unit e.g. BBF-7/9, it may still be worth considering
the use of two smaller units e.g. 2x BBF-3/5 as an alternative.
This gives better circulation in the pond and an extra level
of safety should one of the filter pumps fail. It also allows
one of the filters to be stopped for longer term maintenance,
re-plumbing or relocation, whilst still providing a level
of filtration to the pond. |
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Can
I fit a UV or pool heater on the filter return? |
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| UVs can be fitted into the return
pipework from the filter to the pond, provided that the unit(s)
can handle the flow without causing backpressure. It is safe
for most UVs to run dry for the couple of minutes or so required
for the backwash to take place, see the User’s Guide
for further information. Most heating units are not designed
to run dry and it would be better to run them in a separate
loop of pipework that is constantly full of water. |
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Using
the Filter and TroubleShooting Questions |
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Will
infrequent backwashes give clearer water? |
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No! Some hobbyists have
suggested that only backwashing every one or two weeks will
give better solids removal – we strongly discourage
this practice. Infrequent backwashing gives only a slight,
and temporary, improvement in removal of fine solids. However,
it greatly increases the risk of the beads clumping together
and eventually reduces both filtration efficiency and water
clarity.
Mature filters should always be backwashed at
the frequencies recommended in the User’s Guide. Automatic
models should be set to backwash daily. On aquaculture systems
backwashes every few hours are often appropriate. You cannot
backwash a BubbleBead too often. If in doubt … backwash! |
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My
filter is not working as it should? |
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In the vast majority of cases,
poor operation is due to one of the following:
- Underpressure in the filter:
Resulting from undersized pumps, or from clogged pump strainers.
- Insufficient frequency of backwashes:
Easily solved by increasing the frequency of backwashing.
Carry out the additional series of 3 to 5 backwashes in a
row at least once a month (once a week on high stock/aquaculture
systems).
Also make use of the sediment drain where fitted.
- Insufficient strength of backwash:
Resulting from a restricted waste outlet pipe or a poor siphon-head
drop to the drain.
- Insufficient pre-straining:
Ensure that water pumped to the filter has solids over 2mm
removed.
These problems are extremely rare on correctly
installed filters.
Your User’s Guide has helpful guidance on correct installation
and on Troubleshooting.
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Other Questions & Answers |
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If
your query relates to a troubleshooting issue, please specify
more detailed information... |
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If we haven't answered your question
here, and you can't find an answer in the User's Guide, please
use the 'contact us' form. For
troubleshooting it is very helpful if you can give us background
information on your filter,
e.g.
The filter model being used
The Serial number if given
The pump make and flow rate
The sizes and lengths of pipe being used
Ancillary equipment being used with the filter e.g. Pump Strainer
/ UV unit / Low-Site Valve
The height of the filter inlet in relation to the pool water
level
The height of the return feed to the pond
The height of the end of the waste outlet pipe
The frequency of cleaning
The fish stocks/feeding rate
How long the filter has been running
Which dealer you purchased the filter from |
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| (last updated
April 2004) |
